Phraya Nakhon Cave
Writing and photography By Curtis Hughes
Friday 14th June, 2024
Another hot weekend in Bangkok—the region of Southeast Asia is currently undergoing a heatwave, much like being in a hot oven. The only relief comes from shopping malls, shade, and the coolness when the sun sets. My wife and I have been residing in Thailand for over four months, and we are often overwhelmed by the sheer number of things to do in this awe-inspiring country. We decided to head south, hoping to find some respite from the city's sweltering heat.
It was Friday, and our train departed from Bang Sue station, heading to Hua Hin. The journey was extremely pleasant, made even more comfortable by the fact that we had a bed. Four seemingly short hours later, we arrived at Hua Hin’s beautifully restored train station and bundled ourselves into a 40-minute taxi ride. Our destination was Sam Roi Yot National Park, also nicknamed the 300 peaks.
We awoke to the sound of an orchestra of birds and animals, and our amazing hosts served us breakfast before we headed on our adventure to the Phraya Nakhon Cave. This region is draped in greenery with acres of lush plantations, rugged peaked mountains, and the wild, untouched coastline. The journey took us through quiet little villages and offered majestic views of the beautiful national park.
View from our window at BnB Resort, Sam Roi Yot District.We opted for a hike, a 2 km mostly upward trek on a path that hugs the shoreline and brings you to a panoramic viewpoint of the tiny village and the beautiful coastline littered with limestone islands and mountains. As we descended, drenched in sweat, we reached another deserted beach. From here, the real trek began. We faced a cascade of steep steps leading us to the cave. A word of advice: try to start this hike earlier in the day, when the sun isn't as intense. It can get quite tiring. The ascent takes around 20 minutes, allowing time to rest, catch your breath, sip some water, and savor the sea views as you climb higher toward the mouth of the cave.
Nestled within the verdant expanse of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park in Prachuap Khiri Khan Province, the hidden, enchanting Phraya Nakhon Cave is lesser known to the casual tourist. As we discover new places in Thailand, our ethos is to travel slow and travel with intent to uncover lesser-trodden paths. The Phraya Nakhon Cave is certainly off the beaten track. It is a site where natural beauty and cultural heritage converge in a symphony of light, stone, and tradition.
As we approached the top, covered in sweat and feeling the thud of my heart, the terrain flattened, and we found ourselves amidst beautiful rock formations and tropical trees. The descent began, thanks to a man-made staircase guiding us down into the cave. At this point, the sweat began to evaporate, and my heart rate started to slow. Then, a runner’s high kicked in, and I was greeted by the most beautiful light, shadows, and the natural beauty of the inner sanctum of the cave system.
Tian Mountain Viewpoint.Thailand's climate is renowned for its heat and humidity, but in recent years, it seems to have become even more intense. Microclimates within the country reveal varying degrees of temperature and humidity, influenced by the local geography. In coastal areas like Sam Roi Yot, the sea breeze provides some respite, yet inland regions can feel stiflingly hot. These variations create pockets of cooler air, particularly in shaded and forested areas, which offer relief from the relentless sun.
Global warming exacerbates this already intense climate. The heatwaves are becoming more frequent and severe, making the cooler microclimates within the national parks even more precious. The rising temperatures are not just uncomfortable but also a stark reminder of the broader environmental changes affecting the planet.
The light poured in through the open top, providing a spectacular display as the rays kissed the beautiful rock and dappled the floor with light. As we ventured deeper, the sheer size of the cave began to dawn on us. It was cool, a much-needed respite from the Thai summer heat, which often feels inescapable. As we went further in, the light grew dimmer, and only the sound of our footsteps filled the atmosphere.
Entrance to the cave system.
Staircase leading to and from the cave system.
Cooling rock of the inner sanctum of the cave.
Phraya Nakhon Cave holds many fascinating secrets. One of its most remarkable features is the royal pavilion, the Phra Thinang Khuha Kharuehat, built in 1890 for King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). This pavilion is illuminated at a certain time of day by the sun streaming through the cave's roof, creating an almost otherworldly glow. The cave's history stretches back over 200 years, with local legends and royal visits adding to its mystique. The cave's unique ecosystem, supported by the natural light and moisture, hosts a variety of plant and animal species, making it a site of ecological significance.
Small opening as we enter the caves biggest sanctum.
And then, there it was, like something from a Hollywood film set. Another opening, grander and more majestic. Time seemed to stand still, as did the light radiating down and illuminating the scene before us. The stressors of life and the relentless voices in my head were silenced. We stood in complete awe, never having seen such a spectacle—the play of light, shadow, color, and atmosphere was somewhat spiritual and healing.
As we looked around and began to explore, we were greeted by stunning formations of rock, which are formed through a process that spans millennia. Water, slightly acidic from absorbing carbon dioxide from the air and soil, seeps into cracks in the limestone. Over time, this water erodes the rock, creating vast underground voids and tunnels. Stalactites and stalagmites form as minerals are deposited by dripping water, slowly growing into intricate formations that adorn the cave's interior.
Phra Thinang Khuha Kharuehatn in the shade.
Lush biodiverse plantations.
As we explored this vast space, the feeling of serenity stayed with us. Around every corner, every contour of the rock and sand, an aura of peace, stillness, and silence prevailed. It was a time to contemplate, to be present with the beauty of nature and the wonders of this incredible region of Thailand. The cave's atmosphere was almost otherworldly. The cool air, a stark contrast to the heat outside, wrapped us up like a comforting blanket. Every step echoed softly, a reminder of the cave's vast emptiness. The light filtering through the openings created a dance of shadows, giving the space an ethereal quality. It was as if we had stepped into a different realm.
Then, as we moved deeper into the cave, the sense of tranquility deepened. The air was crisp, almost sweet with the scent of damp earth and ancient stone. The natural formations, shaped over centuries, stood as silent witnesses to the passage of time. We felt a profound connection to the earth, a sense of belonging to something much larger.
Phra Thinang Khuha Kharuehatn.
Toosy - my wife, with the light coming through the top of the cave.
Puddles of light within the cave.
Walking amist the rock and plantations.
Biodiverse trees and plantation growing from the rock.
Ancient rock formations.
Toosy inside the biggest cave chamber.
Exploring deeper into the cave system.
Rock formations and gathered wood.
Liquid with forming stalactities and stalagemites.
Balancing stacked and placed rocks.
After some time, we began our journey back up the staircase that would lead us back to the humid world above. The rock was cooling, the atmosphere serene, and soon we were back on our ascent out of the cave. We could have stayed there all day, perhaps even for the rest of the month. Each step up the cool staircase brought us closer to the reality above, but also further from the peaceful sanctuary we had just experienced. The climb, though still challenging, felt lighter, as if the cave's tranquility had given some of its calm to us.
The descent was somewhat easier than the ascent, and soon we found ourselves back on the beach, still in a daze. Our legs were a little weary, so we opted for a boat journey back to the main beach. As we pulled away, the mountains faded into the humid air, and we were greeted by our driver. The wind in our hair, we reflected, “When are we going to come back?”
Our boat driver taking us back to Laem Sala Beach.