Ratchaburi
Writing and photography By Curtis Hughes
Friday 21st June, 2024
The air resounds with the whistle of the steward as we board a train headed to Ratchaburi. The sun is beginning its descent, and we take our seats, ready for the hour-and-a-half journey south. Ratchaburi is a province in western Thailand, known for its rich history, stunning landscapes, and fertile farmlands. It is particularly famous for its clay pots, a tradition brought over by a Chinese immigrant in the early 20th century. These distinctive dragon jars, known locally as "ong," became a hallmark of the region. The refugee, Khun Wun Saiphakdi, introduced these large, durable pots, which are often adorned with intricate designs and are used for storing water and fermented fish. Today, Ratchaburi is renowned for its pottery craftsmanship, with numerous workshops and a thriving community of artisans.
The train is destined for Hua Hin, at the southernmost point of Thailand. The train is full of people heading that way, which is predominantly Muslim. Bangkok and most of the rest of the country are Buddhist, making this a melting pot of different religions. The South of Thailand, which borders Malaysia, is where we are planning our next big train trip.
A swift hour-and-a-half journey takes us from the concrete jungle of Bangkok into the lush Thai countryside. Bangkok is nestled amidst greenery in every direction, so you don’t need to venture far to find yourself in a haven of green and lush plantations. As the golden light of the setting sun flickers into the cabins, we draw closer to our final destination.
As we disembark, a still calmness fills the air as we head to find a ride to Kangkorn Farmhouse, our home for the next few nights. We travel under the tinted blue early night sky and arrive at a beautiful old Thai-style house. Traditional Thai houses, known as "baan," are typically raised on stilts to avoid flooding and to provide ventilation. They are often made of teak wood and feature intricate carvings and steeply pitched roofs, reflecting a blend of functionality and artistry. We rest our heads for the night in this serene setting.
At 6:30 am, the sun dapples through our window, revealing the beautiful surroundings in which we now find ourselves. Stunning peaks, abundant farmlands, and a calmness unique to rural locations offer a pleasant respite from the constant buzz and intensity of Bangkok. Here, the air feels lighter, and we can hear birds chirping and the occasional ‘pop pop’ of a motorbike gliding past the road outside. Eager to get acquainted with our new home, we decide to brave the heat and set out for an early morning hike. Although we are only an hour or so from Bangkok, it feels like we’ve come a long way. There are no high-rise buildings, no noisy traffic—just the peaceful sounds of nature and the orchestra of singing birds.
The temperature rises quickly. We walk along a main road, occasionally passing stalls where locals sell their produce. We stop for a rest and are greeted by some locals who offer us fruit to try. Living in Thailand gives us access to some of the best exotic fruits in the world. At this time of year, the marian plum is in season. Like a mangosteen, which is one of my favourite fruits, but has a vibrant orange skin and sweet, juicy flesh that bursts with flavour. There is also the rambutan, similar to lychee, with its deep red colour and hairy exterior, known for its sweet and juicy flesh.
After our short pitstop, we continue, turning onto a quieter road. The landscape opens up, offering panoramic views of the region. Green peaks abound, and small plumes of smoke rise from various areas. Unfortunately, Thailand has an issue with stray dogs, and we encountered them several times. It is rare to find people walking in Bangkok due to the heat, and even more so in the countryside, where most people own a motorcycle or car. The dogs were very curious about us walking through their neighbourhood.
We continue exploring our new surroundings, but as the heat intensifies and the fear of heat stroke looms, we decide to head back and find a place to rest. We call for a cab to take us into the main town so we can rent a car and be more mobile. We like the idea of walking most places, but being so rural and with the heat so extreme, it’s difficult to stay out for too long. It was only 10:30 am, and the temperature was already exceeding 34 degrees Celsius. Before long, we find ourselves cruising through the countryside with the help of our driver and the holy grail: air conditioning. It has become our lifeline since living here. I never thought I would be so dependent on getting that cold air fix, especially after living in Berlin, where the freezing winters now feel very far away.
We decided to head to Khao Ngu Stone Park. Here, dramatic limestone mountains tower over an electric green lake. A walkway guides you through the Jurassic Park-like landscape, surrounded by lush green plants. Birds and insects dance in the rare breezes. This park is known for its prehistoric caves and the Buddha images carved into the cliffs, a testament to the area's rich cultural and natural history.
The next day, we eagerly opt for another hike, embarking on the challenging ascent of 365 steep steps to reach the summit of Huppha Sawan Peak. This majestic peak is celebrated for its awe-inspiring vistas across the region and is home to an ancient temple with a storied past dating back centuries. Perched atop the peak, the temple stands as a testament to the area's rich cultural heritage, offering a serene retreat for contemplation and spiritual connection. As we make our way up, navigating the rugged path, we are greeted by a playful colony of monkeys, adding a lively and enchanting atmosphere to our ascent.
Eventually, we find ourselves in Ratchaburi town. We head to the Pottery Legend Museum, where Ratchaburi’s famous clay pots are showcased. These pots, introduced by a Chinese refugee, have become a significant part of the town's cultural heritage. The museum displays a vast collection of these beautiful jars, detailing their history and the intricate process of their creation.
Ratchaburi is nestled along the river, and the small town bursts with history, heavily influenced by Chinese culture. The red and green colours dominate the buildings, dancing in harmony together. We wander through small markets, feeling like the only foreigners there—a rare experience in Thailand. We love mingling with locals, immersing ourselves in their world, and observing their daily lives.
Traveling brings a lot of perspective. I often feel a great sense of admiration for how hard Thai people work. Most of all, I love the spirit and kindness of the Thai people, influenced by Buddhism, which fosters good morals and values. Buddhism, the predominant religion in Thailand, emphasises compassion, mindfulness, and respect for all living beings. This deeply ingrained belief system shapes the daily lives of Thai people, contributing to their remarkable hospitality and generosity.
After cooling off in some air conditioning, we return the hire car and head to the station to catch our short train journey back to Bangkok. As the train departs, the whistle blows, and I reflect on our latest adventure. There is something healing about travel and how it transports you to a new world. I am constantly contemplating my place in the world, but I feel more at ease knowing I share it with wonderful people like the Thai. It’s a very comforting feeling. As I settle into my seat, an elderly lady smiles at me, and I think, "I truly cherish the kindness and energy of the Thai people. I'll miss this warmth when we return to Europe (if we ever do)."
